| :9/30-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 hammock,
view, ot, computer... all i need
| i
resolved to work more on my websites today but the weather ended up being perfect.
but it was an unusually dark vampire-y night on a scraggly deserted
lonely beach, made ominously more so by an unfriendly electricity blackout. i
was eating alone at nature bar (couldn't take anymore of the jah bar food today)
when all the lights went out. after an uncomfortable hour listening to people
shuffle in the dark around me, i made a run for it and felt my way across the
beach (fell in a puddle up to my waist) and up into the jah bar jungle. ot and
i ended up giggling hysterically in the corner most of the night over nothing.
strange energy lurking. | |
|
| :9/29-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 kitchen
room
| tom the smiley,
now-orphaned kid from cambodia is fifteen... and a very young fifteen at
that, with his high pitched giggles and droopy pants. he now has a farang "girlfriend"
who is around forty... one of those new age women who think all you need is love....they
cuddle up in hammocks and tickle each other all night. it sort of makes me...uh...
sick (and all the jah bar boys guiltily avoid eye contact with them), but what
can i do, yank the cigarette out of his mouth and say "stop fucking that woman?"
... she is decidedly pretty, seemingly okay, if a bit reserved (i don't blame
her)- but i don't know why she is chasing a little boy. tom is having fun but
when i look at him twittering on her lap and see her holding him like mommy cleaver
(knowing they just had half public sex yesterday) i want to hit her.... i will
try to stick to just giving him condoms though. 15 year old boys want everything. the
past few days the thai food at the jah bar has been inedible. ot (from northern
isaan) is now surrounded by southern thai guys who insist on cooking and who only
cook with curry and coconut. that fact drives him crazy, but for me it is the
meat. i really don't like meat to begin with, but a bowlful of random corpse parts,
bones jutting and lined with gristle, so that you end up spending half the damn
meal picking them out of your food, makes no logical sense to me. i am revising
my opinion on thai food. ot says thai people like their food to look good. his
version of good and mine don't seem to coincide. i am getting skinny(!).
i might have to start taking trips to 7-11 four beaches away. |
| |
| :9/28-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 headed
to the beach with my fish float
| ...a
magically delicious day spent floating around in crystal clear water and being
chased by jellyfish and thai children trying to steal my float. ot swam with me.
later at the bar i joked with him in thai and shined my flashlight at his
ass... he was drunk enough to flash it at me right at the bar. the rest of the
night he shamelessly flirted with girls who shamelessly flirted right back, as
i tapped my fingers on the bar... the hugest man in the world came in
tonight, kind of a circle on feet. he loosened a few floorboards and broke a bench
before he nodded politely on his way out. i didn't think people like that travelled
much (let alone climbed up jah mountain), but then i noticed his teeny pattaya
girlfriend and it all made sense. funny, 'what's eating gilbert grape' was on
tv too. one of my favorite movies with another circle on feet. ahem...that's
my story and i'm stickin' to it today. | |
|
| :9/27-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 blissful
i say
| feeling
pleasantly scattered with so much time and luxury to myself. i recommend to everyone
losing themself on an island at some time in their life. it's easy to find yourself
again, and in doing so you start to see aspects and fortunes you never realized
you had. the balance between peace and disarray is definitely swayed to the positive
side, which i can't say about, well, any of the places i have lived previously...
ko chang is perfect, at least in this season. i swam this morning alone
outside my hut in clear turquoise water under a bright sun, until i saw great
black monstery shadows on the sea floor and noticed i was surrounded by jellyfish.
almost took off a toe scrambling maniacally to get get back to shore... managed
to recover a lot of the music i thought i had lost on my trip- my computer can
read the mp3s even if my khao san walkman can't (though my computer should be
blowing up any day now with the crazy electrical surges) ...had a musical afternoon
in which sweet sleepy ot and i kissed and made up. i gave him a massage and helped
him stretch away his hangover. learned to say 'squeeze' in thai (beep). ate succulent
thai food as usual. some guy wrote me saying i wasn't living life to it's
fullest. i say au contraire....depends on what you are looking for, doesn't it.
| | |
| :9/26-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |

| in
a dark productive mood. this island is perfectly accomodating. decided to forego
the jah bar party for the solitude of the dark beach and my quiet room. doing
a lot of writing that doesn't fit on this site (today i...). rained off and on,
furious bursts like bucket showers and then sudden calm. ot never came home and
i tossed and turned alone. | |
|
| :9/25-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 my
wee cozy hut from behind | insistent,
mischievous rain all day. smoked on the porch down the way with a very socially
awkward (and therefore kind of free) gangly sweaty man from germany. bonne or
someplace like that, rambles endlessly. "boring martin." dances wildly
by himself. ot likes him, not me. we watched the cambodian family catching fish
from the cesspool under my hut. the toddler is cute, we wink at each other from
across the bank. no ot most of the day actually and i like it... or rather,
i don't care. the banshee jungle birds wail their psychotic high pitched songs
from the bramble, and kingfisher hoots flitter past. geckos and spiders forever
hop and slide around me. the sea feels brotherly and blue outside my door........
restless is what all that means. me on my hammock with a runaway brain and a lot
of fresh, moldable time. so i read 'x''s
new update and was not too surprised to see his mock hitler nymphomaniacal travel
diary lapping it up. :) i think he's gotten a little crazier this past year- but
he's ok. i read past emails to me to remember his beautiful writing.... i can't
SMS him now. :( i ate tom yam alone at the nature restaurant,
where i have had a year-long awkward nodding acquaintance with everyone on staff.
bored on a hammock, trying to smoke a cigarette that just plain revolted me. ot
rescued me, pretending to be in a better mood. we went and played pool & crazy
8's, the only cardgame i can ever remember the rules too, in the candlelit dark,
with whomever joined. he played guitar on my porch at 2am, i sat in the dark listening
to him sound like a thai thom yorke (radiohead) for once and patted him on the
head. the fishing boats were lined up on the far horizon, looking like stars,
with an occasional lightning pink lit cloud. we snaked lazily into bed and each
other. | | |
| :9/23-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 ot
playing beach boy
| gorgeous
weather- skipping around the yard waving mountain fresh laundry in the breeze
kind of weather. i in fact had a satisfying morning cleaning my hut and doing
my laundry. i made a desk out of a bench i stole from the hut next door and set
up my computer. ot picked me up on a motorbike and we went to slurp noodle soup
and somtam from our normal stand. i played with the fleabitten puppies
and the resident flatheaded baby while ot read the thai paper and chatted with
the family. the thai guys who worked there all stood barechested in aprons around
a couple of manic roosters. one rooster had a headguard and ankle tape. there
was a tarp laid on the ground. i left as the biggest rooster got seriously wounded
by his pecking jumping friend, in a spray of feathers and snot- they were training
him to cockfight. t'aint pretty. forced suicide.
'l', one of the
ubiquitous thai barboys, came down to my hut when i was there alone and paid me
to write an english email to his girlfriend 'd'. i took pictures of the cats for
him to send to her and burned them to cd. i didn't tell him that the mail bounced
back to me and informed me his girlfriend's email address did not exist. and i
won't tell her that he f***s different girls every night (a few nights ago he
climbed down from his loft with two gorgeous little japanese gals). he asked me
to help him set up a book/jewelry/whatever shop in the next month... unsure if
i can keep up the pretense of having a job that pays squat, but at least i would
have something productive to do. | |
|
| :9/22-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 | people
do not have to exist. they have to survive and beyond that it's up to them. they
can live quite dead, thank you very much. me- i have a sense of self now, a desire
to be alive, which is good. i sense that the better part of the whole of the human
race is half-dead...or half alive if you are an optimist, which i rarely am. (which
is better?) a whole half of the whole half-human race. flatlined and gray. blending
quietly into the nothing. bubbles. pork chops. insignificants. i resolve not to
become one of them.
live. life. seems simple enough, you'd think. life can be a continuous trip- believe
me, mine has been since birth. when I go out of life I am going all the way (with
a bang I hope despite the whimper). thus i won't get caught stagnating. unless
of course i want to be.... ...from whence springs this babble you ask? from
a fear of the return to normality as i had to accept it before in the US- trying
to come to grips with having to eventually remain at rest, amongst the dead, when
moving is what moves me. for now i will bury my head thankfully in ko chang. |
| |
| :9/21-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 unkind
gray
 not to
mention red | rainy season
is here full force. rain has always depressed me. gray skies mean gray thoughts.
the water on lonely beach is seriously contaminated after it rains. valid options
for a shower include the ocean. water comes out of the tap in my hut brick red.
who knows what unfriendly things i am inadvertently ingesting... perhaps it's
that prime minister taksin is planning his own little jonestown massacre here
in his efforts to take over ko chang and convert it to an upscale playground...
(just kidding! hope no one takes my vehement opinions too seriously!) thus
far i have managed not to get really sick on my travels despite creepy crawlies
of every ilk. there are (large) insects, frogs, lizards, i saw a snake the other
day, and even scraggly monkeys around here... not to mention wild thai dogs. food
left out for hours, low quality meat. alcohol and cigarette smoke (though neither
of which i have imbibed in quite some time). sometimes i get obsessed by the unhealthiness,
but then i take a breath of clean elephant island air and wiggle my toes in the
sandy grass. sit back in my hammock and forget whatever it was i was trying to
remember about exercise.
tried to get otto to do something today, as the
whole staff of the jah bar is inclined towards hanging out in hammocks and staring
off. he played a reluctant ten minutes of guitar and went back to staring off.
little tom came giggling over with a gift for me- a tshirt made up of koh chang
postcards. i had told him i liked it last week. i was embarassed by the sudden
kindness as tom has never paid any attention to me at all. he was by my side all
night, spouting nonsensical thai, shining flashlights in my eyes, torturing the
cats, being a champion at pool. anything to get me to look at him. i have no idea
what is going on. poor lonely kid; maybe someone mentioned i would teach him english.
i personally was totally manic today. this is the 3rd day i have tried
to survive without spending money. admirable for me. i can't rent a motorbike,
check email, drink sangsom at nature bar. ko chang has become a whole new world.
i lived very simply in nepal, but otherwise i have followed every impulse on this
trip. i am now learning to expel, cast off, throw away. simplify. tune out. it's
very freeing... but at the same time that way of life makes me a little crazy-
so i couldn't stop moving, planning, coming up with ideas all day... breathlessly
negating the whole point. really annoying to the surrounding sleepy hippies. one
thing i am endlessly thankful for is the jah bar food. thai people always have
huge quantities of creative food stuffed back in their kitchens. 3 or 4 times
a night the jah bar boys coming smiling out with something new and delicious contrived.
tonight we had something like kale mixed with crunchy pork skins and garlic. boiled
eggs left in salt water for a week. tom yam gai (spicy chicken soup).
i have never eaten so well actually. lots of herbs, and of course rice. we eat
in a circle on mats on the floor, fending off kittens and bumping into each other
in our scrambling for food. there is usually a subtitled movie overhead.
i
of course don't write everything about 'x'
and therefore will breach that subject with just a note that i am worried about
him. | | |
| :9/20-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 third
jumping, skittering, hand-sized spider i have found in my room this week
|
communication probs can really be destructive. last night
i got to the bottom of scruffy otto's gloominess in a very roundabout way. i spent
the night trying to draw him out and he finally blurted out that he was thinking
something he didn't think i would like.... obviously i made him tell me and he
said "i think love the wife of someone". my heart started racing but i took a
deep breath and said calmly "wife of who? whit?" (the only wife i know of around
here- a completely typical thai girl in boxer shorts, mismatched tee, 5 year old
on hip, chicken stand...). he nodded and i sighed. "well...uh... maybe you shouldn't
sleep in my room anymore ok?". he nodded sadly and turned over to sleep, while
i sat and fumed in the dark. i already have enough to worry about with the mosquitos,
damn him! i got up to pace around, thinking to myself grumpily that i knew(!)
otto would one day go for a real thai girl. she speaks his language, listens to
the same music, has the same cultural perspective. is hot... argh. sitting on
my hammock contemplating, i decided to be cool about it even though i wanted to
scream. i finally plopped back down beside him after an hour of tearing my hair
out and feeling a lot more sad about it than i ever thought i would, and said
"well do you think she likes you too?". "who?" "whit's wife." "huh? why?.... i
don't know, i never thought about it!?"... ...that's when i realized something
was wrong. turns out he is not in love with a thai girl and wasn't trying to spring
the news on me, we just completely misunderstood each other's speech. he had been
trying to say something totally and completely different (which i won't repeat).
i am thinking this probably happens fairly often. i wonder how many times he has
thought i said something i didn't. so anyway the thought of ot straying
made me more attentive and we are back in our comfortable niche of pleasantly
ignoring each other. he works at his jungle bar in the daytime while i laze around
on the impossible beach, and at night i observe him in good lighting at the bar
while i chat with whomever interesting i can find.
(tonight i was unlucky-
i met only an idiot from austria who tried to tell me 9-11 never happened (i watched
it myself from the street), and if it did, it was my government blowing their
own people up because it is impossible that the planes could have caused all the
destruction alone. argh. )
| |
|
| :9/19-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 sign
outside my bungalow | i made
a list of countries i still want to get to, baiting my underlying drive to go
earn money and fast. this trip i only made it through half of my itinerary, though
if i were a true budget traveller i really could have gone a lot further (and
if i had just disciplined myself to stay away from thailand a bit more....) i
don't regret my self indulgence in the least though... i desperately want to go
to china, mongolia, tibet, back to nepal to trek, north india (dharamsala), afghanistan,
south america, mexico/central america, egypt, turkey, and a couple of other parts
of europe.... to start! not to mention the places i want to go back to! more adventures
coming up! if you have a place for me to crash in one of those areas... i can
be very unobtrusive (flutters eyelashes). :)
i am trying to be more patient
with otto's cultural quirks. some things that irritate me are the tendency to
pretend he understands what i am saying when he doesn't. or simply ignoring me
because he doesn't understand. but avoiding conflict at all costs, which seems
like such a dishonest way of life to me... and having a blind devotion (disguised
as respect) for those who are older and richer than he is... letting people treat
him like a dog, and thinking he is one as his position in society is lower than
theirs in the unspoken heirarchy. i have tried to stir up a little rebellion,
ambition, confidence in the kid but thus far he is having none of it and i am
a wee bit (okay thoroughly) frustrated. these problems manifest themselves in
most aspects of thai society though, this is not blunt, self centered america.
thai people repress themselves and oppress each other under the guise of "politeness".
& with their current illogical, nationalistic, corrupt government allowed
free reign by the meek thai people, i think the future of thailand can only be
all those nasty headlines come to life (got to stop reading newspapers).
i still probably just need to relax, switch my brain waves from bangkok mode to
island mode. it is nice to have the peace and quiet, truthfully. i have been working
on some little projects (studying thai, making a new website, coming up with business
ideas) in my hut and have resolved to learn a couple of new things (guitar, firedancing)
and not just whiiiiile away my time in a hammock. high season can be endless fun.
|
| |
| :9/18-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 my
snazzy thai style flip flops
| i
met a quirky belgian painter who lives in tokyo and we spent most of the day (that
i didn't spend on my hammock) chatting. somehow, though i have not an ounce of
artistic creativity in my blood, i always click well with artists. he spent his
teens walking across the US. one more person who makes me think i am far too neurotic
to be a real traveller. i personally couldn't see myself begging for scraps outside
of restaurants or sneaking into the cabs of trucks at truck stops to catch some
sleep. meanwhile today i feel pent up and neurotic. hard to accept being
poor. but the weather, though it rains heavily at night, is gorgeous, the beaches
empty, and i have a lot of time to just be. | |
|
| :9/17-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |

|
i escaped otto's withdrawn and glum energy today and went
shopping on sai khaew, trying to stock up on whatever i would need for
the next couple of weeks? months? i bought candles and incense, made some shelves
for my hut, bought a hammock since someone stole the one i left here (argh), and
caught up on internet for now, which i have resolved to myself to check only once
every three days (psshhaw). i picked up a new sim card for my phone so i can get
calls on the island, with an idea in the back of my head that i might be able
to teach private english lessons for extra moola donations. i rode back to lonely
beach in the rain, as fast as i could go without dying. still sick, i filled my
stomach with healing tom yam, said hi to the indifferent nature bar kids,
and headed up into the jungle to the jah bar. after hours of simply sitting and
getting stoned there i realized that i will not survive the winter here without
some sort of project. | |
|
| :9/16-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 hammock
home | sometimes i can't
stand otto outside of ko chang, to be honest (irreconcilable differences), so
it is lucky that today we returned. we caught a minibus back from bangkok with
his boss and coworker. the minibuses are absolute hell- the air conditioning is
inevitably broken and the seats are cramped. on top of that i was very sick to
my stomach- whether stress or insidious parasites i know not. when we got to trat
ot's friend picked us up in a pickup and took us back to ko chang on the big car
ferry. we spoke not a word all day- or i didn't, i can't speak thai of course,
and thais are not always so accomodating. i sat feeling withered and grumpy, alone
most of the day.
later on i wondered why the hell i am back in ko chang(!),
but i suppose it takes a few days to readjust for me. i got my favorite bungalow
on the lovely white beach, paid for a month. headed up to the jah bar, where tek
the bartender with strange smoldering eyes has returned... lost a few games of
pool shamefacedly, and felt rather uptight towards otto. i noticed a particular
oversexed ho (quite rampant on thai islands) has been sucessful in her efforts
and managed to snag one of the bartenders as her sex toy for the week, which doesn't
bother me so much except that as the only other girl i am expected to make conversation
with her and i really can't think of a single thing i want to discuss with her
ditzy nympho self. leave that to the gullible boys.... i spent a lot of time dodging
her girlie, space-invading presence....at least that is the most of my problems
on ko chang. at this point in my journal i have to say life is life, take
it or leave it.... i have to stifle my addiction to novelty for a bit. things
will get more interesting when i have saved money and started travelling again-
you hold your horses, i'll hold mine. | |
|
| :9/15-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 thai
cd cover | slept in the
coolness of the hotel room with otto most of the day in bangkok, fending off weird
vibes & watching an old tarzan movie and gory thai newscasts on tv. later
on i left to go find some last minute necessities for koh chang, and ot went off
to work for his boss, who followed him to bangkok like a good little slavedriver.
i found ot in a back alley later drinking with his ex girlfriend, and not one
to let a little intrigue slip past, i joined them. susanna is exactly like me,
just ten years older and wiser. she is from new york as well, and we ended up
talking for hours. she made me feel like i should get the hell to the US and make
money as fast as possible, but that's easier said than done. we also ran into
steffen- ot's diving instructor friend whom i had previously humiliated myself
in front of (thinking i could dive when i have a chronic innate fear of being
overcome by water). he has landed a great job teaching diving on the red sea in
egypt, and leaves tomorrow on a plane. ot is his best thai friend so i guess that
gives me a bit of credibility, as he seemed to have no hard feelings toward me.
i kept catching him eyeing my breasts though... they got horrifically smashed
while it poured ceaselessly outside. steffen's thai girlfriend was grim all night,
threatening to leave and making the boys feel bad for having a good time. finally
otto and i couldn't take it and we left, wishing them good luck and telling them
to try to enjoy their last night together. later on we found out the girl stabbed
steffen with a knife in the night- ah thailand. | |
|
| :9/14-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 redemption
corner of gogo | i took
otto to get a massage today, which was pretty much all that happened. i spent
the day deciding to probably stay on ko chang for the winter, if only because
i can not afford to go elsewhere. another crazy night, though when has a
night i spent with 'x'
not been crazy.... later i decided to meet up with him. we talked shop in his
hotel room, devising a get rich quick plan to implement upon our return to the
US. i trust 'x' because he is lucky, and not a little bit smart. his life follows
the wheel of fortune- up and down and up again. he always seems to know how to
survive, and comfortably. it's funny that we even talk to each other, but i know
he has my back and i have proven that i have his, so he is more family to me than
any real family i may have. poor ot though, doesn't understand the first thing
about a culture that is real, honest, loyal.... ugh thailand. i was not too excited
to have them meet each other. anyway 'x' and i went to have ja dong
and play pool again and i decided i would try to be accomodating and let 'x'
and ot meet. gritting my teeth, i called otto and invited him to go out with 'x'
and his friends, knowing that a night out with them had to inevitably end up centered
around the sex scene. sure enough, we headed to nana
plaza first. ot felt a little conspicuous being a thai guy (who is therefore
barred from most venues) amongst rich farang people, with his neighbors selling
their bodies on stage. he has never witnessed that aspect of thailand, but i held
back and let him watch because i thought he might be interested in understanding
it. we went to one gogo bar in nana that had a bucking bronco- if you stay
on for over a minute you get free drinks. ot and i tried- i stayed 54 seconds,
he stayed 31. thrilling, but i chafed my ankles holding onto the bull for dear
life, praying (karma pachaina) that i stayed on under my breath but ultimately
falling inebriated into the soft cushiony pit below. 'x' and his pals (sex tourist
boss, two young thai girls- one of whom i was informed "swallows") were too refined
to try. the girls dancing on stage were what can only be described as pigs in
lipstick though, so we headed to patpong. 'x' generously offered to show
otto a blow job bar, so we headed to the star of light. after i managed to get
sheepishly past the glares at the front door, we settled back with beers and watched
a hillbilly, midlife crisis type get blown by a pretty thai girl (who sits behind
a curtain underneath the bar) below a tv broadcasting porn. the bar was a dive.
ot was a bit shocked and shyly intrigued but declined to partake. we headed
to a patpong show after that but otto wasn't impressed by the average ya
ba addicted, burnout isaan woman opening bottles with her well worn pussy,
and nor was i- so off to the boy bar it was. thailand is cracking down ("cleaning
up" they say- ie. kicking out homeless people, stray dogs, and pretending prostitution
doesn't exist) for the APEC convention; can't have george bush thinking thais
are less than refined you know... so the boys weren't nekkid tonight and the show
was fairly tame. thousands of baht later we headed to soi cowboy,
where i flirted with 'x''s lesbian girlfriend and ot drunkenly drooled and chatted
up a gorgeous dancer at long gun's. as 'x' and i sat philosophizing, ot and the
girl blatantly made eyes at each other, so 'x' (trying to be friendly to ot)
insisted i pay the barfine for ot and take the girl home. i stupidly followed
orders, ot freaked out, big embarassing fight in which the girl ended up being
put exactly in her place (to my sympathetic humiliation), and ot and i went home
drunk and alone in a silent cab, glaring at each other the entire way. i felt
bad all around, since i knew seediness (and thus 'x') are not otto's thing and
i don't want to give him the wrong impression, i just want him to be adventurous,
to see. fortunately 'x' had popped a viagra in ot's mouth at the end of
the night so all was not lost and we went to sleep happy. :) |
| |
| :9/13-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 "hunting
rabbit" t-shirt- a favorite chatuchak find |
ot dragged me around chatuchak market today, as
he had managed to snag 2000 baht from his boss with which to buy clothes. he shops
mostly in the dingy, musty secondhand section, which has occasional brilliant
finds but suffocates you in the process of finding them. i followed him around
lazily, eating some strange fruit and nuts snack wrapped in banana leaves (yum),
petting the fuzzy ma nois in the pet section, flipping through books on
verb conjugation in the bookstalls. later we sat on khao san drinking and disagreeing
over 'x', whom ot
can not seem to accept as my best friend. they do not have best friends of the
opposite sex in thailand. i will never drop 'x' (who knows and loves me) for
ot (who simply doesn't) though, so he either has to accept it or not. i have to
meet 'x' this week to discuss future plans, in fact. the guy who runs
ajarn.com wrote to say hello
and invite me to work with him when he moves to ko chang in the next couple of
weeks. prime minister taksin's latchkey people have been swarming around
lately, trying to look inconspicuous and failing. i think they have a secret plan
to take over ko chang for themselves. the katoeys are giving them a run
for their money though, of late. | |
|
| :9/12-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 pretty
sure i stole this picture of the market from another site
|
bangkok life. not so much fast lane for me this time. ot
doesn't appreciate my standby room at d&d, so he insisted i pay for us to stay
at the more expensive but comfortable sawasdee place behind khao san... at least
the cable works there and the staff is not snooty. i am sick and want to sleep
on a real bed and take a hot shower is all. i can't get into bangkok today, possibly
because i am poor but also because i have otto at my side. he is not a city boy
and we disagree on most aspects of the city- music, food, entertainment options.
i didn't mind so much though, after my bowl of cuay tio moo with my favorite
grim noodle lady, i went back and fell horrifically motionless in front of tv
all day. later on we managed to have a drink at the alley bar. |
| |
| :9/11-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 cambodian
border | this morning
ot and i made a deal to meet up at 10am to catch the taxi to the ferry off the
island. he wasn't there by then so i left, thinking maybe his boss just wouldn't
let him leave. he called me right as i boarded the ferry and told me to get off
and wait for him, which i did. he showed up looking as annoyed as i felt, and
we were off.
the food in trat is really good- there is a great
street market with lots of stalls selling good snacks. we didn't go there unfortunately-
ot took me to a place down the street with various mediocre thai dishes. we read
the newspapers and hopped on a stifling minibus to hat lek (cambodian border).
the driver halfway there decided he was too lazy to drive us all the way and dropped
us off in some little no name town, pantomiming an injury to his van. we waited
in obliterating sunshine for another hour for another bus. finally got to the
border where otto waited on a stack of bags and i hiked in. the thai officials
are generally nice to me but the cambodian ones are vultures. they charged me
1100 baht for a visa (it is usually 1000, which is not even legal in itself),
and a scandalous 400 baht to exit the same day i enter (also not legal in the
slightest). i HATE it when they do this to me, they are simply putting me into
a rich farang category. i argued vigorously with them, they sent me to a back
room to speak to a uniformed superior. he couldn't look me in the eye when i reminded
him that it was not legal to rip off a young budget traveller in such a greedy
manner, but he informed me with raised eyebrows that i would not be leaving the
country until i paid. i threw him 200 baht, told him i hoped he enjoyed his bottle
of whiskey, and made a ran for it with my passport. the word spreads quickly
though and by that time the friendly thai officials were eyeing me suspiciously
and running my passport through the computer. apparently the fact that i have
a boyfriend in ko chang did not justify my staying there, so i was questioned
for about 15 minutes. an hour and a half after i arrived at the border i returned
to a disgruntled and sweaty ot, looking much the same as he was. we managed to
catch the requisite smelly backpacker minibus back to trat with a bunch of israelis
and dutch kids. ....arrgh i hate visa runs. apparently though it is getting
even worse for expats. thailand can't decide if they appreciate the fact that
we are virtually holding up their economy for them, and have decided to try to
kick all long term foreigners out (except those in the top income bracket of course)
for now. lots of visa restrictions in the works....sigh, their funeral.
in
trat we decided to take the 6 hour late bus to bangkok- morchit station. they
gave us free snacks and otherwise we slept the whole way. |
| |
| :9/10-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 just
what the jah bar needs- a fake gun | today
i tried and failed to decide between living dirt poor as the locals do in ko chang
for a few months (still here), and going home... or teaching english in bangkok.
i am the worst decision maker on earth so basically this entailed driving ot crazy
with a different point of view every five minutes. he says 'look, i know farangs
think they can't "come down", but take a risk and try to live life simply for
3-4 months while you are waiting for the holiday season to pass in the US and
jobs become available again'.... not in such good english, but sounds perfectly
reasonable na? he loves me, or he loves free accomodation at least, so he's trying
to convince me to stay. but i have a hard time with the fact that i <<<neurosis>>>will
be making probably no money and i can't probably even check email for that time,
let alone live like i normally do. all that buddhist simple living stuff is a
good idea but hard to practice if you are some kind of worrywart or you have any
sort of drive. i don't know if i can handle being poor again, but there are so
many good things about ko chang to balance that out it just might be ok. anyway
visa run tomorrow, after that a quick trip to bangkok to get my bag and then i
am off.... to one of the three possible lives.
watched a brilliant documentary
on kung fu in china which brought my travel bug flaring up again, and tried to
be nice to young tom, who had to shave all his hair and has returned to the jah
bar after his father's funeral with the sweetest of fake smiles. |
| |
| :9/09-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |

|
i bought a farang porn dvd for ot last time i went to pantip
plaza and showed it to him today. he was suitably impressed by the honest views.
:)
obviously i stayed one more day on ko chang, due to ot's irresistable
pleading. he ended up sleeping until 2p so i guess i exhausted him with the stress
of my indecision. we made a happy trip to bai lan when he awoke to play
with the dogs and drink with drac. picked up a thai girl who was hitching back
to the nature bar and rode teetering 3 on a motorbike up the hills. hung out on
my hammock. after an average night at jah bar ot and i strolled down the beach
under the full moon to the nature bar's full moon party and made fun of people
dancing.
| | |
| :9/08-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 jah
bar blur | today i decided
i should run for my life before i spend all my backup money in ko chang (instead
of going home). 'x' (who finally
contacted me with the news that he is once again deathly ill in toxic cambodia)
suggested i stay in thailand though, as it's a cheaper base for whiling away winter.
sounds good to me... however i am rather broke and not sure if ko chang is the
place. a lot of travelling is the deciding of where to go next. or deciding if
i have the patience to stop and not think too much. i had a very definite
plan tonight to get up in the morning and leave the island tomorrow. said goodbye
to everyone including a miserable pouting otto. a lot of last minute pleading
going on. got rather drunk with some onlookers at the jah bar. |
| |
| :9/07-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |

|
tense day, gray skies. frustrated all morning because i couldn't
burn a cd to update my site due to the incompetence of all of the internet shop
owners in this area. haven't heard from 'x'
in too long (!?!?). content on ko chang (beachfront hut helps immensely) but weighing
out near future options. otto is immensely and perpetually frustrating because
of his thai nature- his coworker has gambled away his paycheck for the last 3
months, leaving him quite unpaid... he doesn't have money to buy toothpaste or
noodle soup. meanwhile he works from 8 in the morning (when they sometimes come
knocking on my door for him) until 3 in the morning at the jah bar, sometimes
even later. too weak and spineless to say a single word about it to his godlike
superiors... the lack of respect i feel as a result for him makes sex boring. |
| |
| :9/06-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 ot's
room | spent today updating
this site for the past 2 1/2 weeks, which sort of cheats the reader out of a real
time, honest read... but hey, there's no electrical outlet in my hut. my camera
batteries have all been dead too so excuse my lack of good pictures. i had a lot
of things i wanted to write but at this point you get the mood i am in right now.
which is not caring at all about the continuation of my trip, going home to make
money, or doing anything other than staying right the f*** on ko chang (!). here
we go again.... at this point i haven't thought about taka for awhile (why
should i if he doesn't care?), 'x' is missing
somewhere and i haven't heard from him, and ot and i are getting along like peas
and carrots. lots of inquiries coming in to me via email about teaching positions
but i am basically ignoring them for now. i am quite happy despite the lack of
my thai massage joint and a good set of food stalls... anyway i spent the
day at the jah bar alone. little tom's dad was murdered with an m-60 (or something
like that) last night in trat and all the boys went to tom's house to console
him. tomorrow he has to shave his head and be a monk out of respect for his father.
...i had the place to myself with the exception of whit's shy, no-english
wife. i ate khao lam, watched thai game shows, and soaked in the encroaching jungle
until the inevitable night party. | |
|
| :9/05-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 my
neighbors
| ot
was extremely drunk last night, which i have never seen him. he ended up vomiting
loudly and awkwardly off the side of the bar, and begging me to marry him. he
must sense i am leaving soon... though actually i am questioning that move.
ot
brought his friend simon from australia to bai lan today with us. he is
a laid back guy who fell in love with ko chang too. they had guitars and played
music on the deck by the water, along with drac of the shelly dreadlocks. i played
with the dogs. they taught me a lot of thai, which i still think will take another
year to learn at all. we conversed a bit. i feel like i need to do something,
make something, exercise or something. but otherwise nothing to worry about here.
| | |
| :9/04-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 |
this jah bar party (there's one weekly) i decided my strategy
would be to sit alone at the bar and talk to everyone who came up. it's a good
way to meet people without getting stuck with them all night. the party was pretty
big, which might indicate high season already (god i hope not). but my scheme
worked, i met lots of interesting people and i was able to easily lose the uninteresting
ones with a nod towards otto. the french and scandinavian boys were rather leery
but i click with those two nationalities pretty well. lots of thai kids came in
and started dancing. one fat boy with his fat girlfriend (wearing almost nothing
to boot) sat a few feet from me at the bar, giving off waves of disgusting dreadlock
rot and armpit stench. (again i ask what is with travelers?.) i experimented with
fashion tv, which had a sexy swimsuit runway show on, to see if the females would
complain and the men would drool. it turned out to be the opposite- the women
were interested and the men wanted to change it back to sports. (ugh.) tom the
cambodian kid asked the fat girl innocently "why are you so big?" and giggled
in his little high pitched way. the mood sort of went downhill from there and
ot and i went to bed early.
| |
|
| :9/03-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 |
first thing ot and i saw upon waking today was two buckets
on the beach with holes punched in the lids. joe and his gorgeous new blond haired
blue eyed girlfriend faye from the nature bar were standing over them, peering
into the holes with disgusted looks. they told us that they had found a snake,
a rat, and a scorpion under one of the bungalows. upon further inspection and
a subsequent, shaky period of cooling off i realized this was true. scorpions
are bigger than i thought (!). we left them amidst a circle of thai boys feeding
the rat to the snake and scrambling to collect materials to build a cage.
ot took me to bai lan where he had to pick up his laundry. the laundry
lady is a fat, satisfied old thai woman who has been known to sell the occasional
questionably legal herb. we bypassed her to go to the bar next door. it is a big,
rickety, woodplanked structure jutting out over the rocks and water. there are
lots of cute jumpy dogs and random hammocks. we sat at a makeshift table and chatted
with drac for a bit. he is a very reclusive and quiet thai guy, and he wears shells
in his dreadlocks. he invited us back tomorrow.
later on after beating
tom the champion orphan kid at pool, joe and faye arrived at jah bar and we sat
smoking and drinking while it rained calmly. bun the dj tried some new music for
once. dr. martin showed up with his satirical religion's cd, and we listened to
his folksy blues music late into the night. carry from south africa, who is bald,
proudly presented us with her new tattoo- a snail crawling across her head. a
group of europeans who were relieved to have met each other so they didn't have
to experience real culture all sat jabbering stupidly in the corner. a thai girl
fell in love with ot and begged him to let her kiss his hand.
|
| |
| :9/02-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 |
after a lazy morning lounging with ot on my hammock i wandered
up to the jah bar to meet a friend of his. he is a scruffy old german with a smoker's
voice who has lived in japan the past ten years and does travel photojournalism.
he was cool- he did an article on ko chang for wingspan magazine (ANA's inflight)
that made ko chang look like heaven. he had travelled alone in africa with embassy
sponsorship in areas where the natives will kill you for your underwear, let alone
your camera, and he is a regular visitor to lonely beach. but unfortunately he
is also very pompous and incapable of having a 2-way conversation with someone
(ie. i wasn't even allowed to respond to him) so i left disgustedly without getting
his name, and played pool with the jah bar kids. later on though i met
another nice british man in his early fifties- the "very reverend" dr.
martin of the church of the
eternal question. a definite weirdo but friendly and funny and with an
occasionally brilliant perspective. he tried to get me to dance with him, and
a very sexy tagalong french girl whose french film director boyfriend lay scraggly
bored in a hammock nearby. i declined due to chronic laziness. another beautiful
day. | | |
| :9/01-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
 ot
and the somtam lady | not
sure what i did today in retrospect, though i am sure nature was involved, good
food, good people.... | | | |