Wednesday, June 22, 2005


having spent way too many nights in succession drinking late hours on the extremely polluted street in front of 'o''s friend's bar and feeling overwhelmed by the filthiness and chaos of bangkok, i decided on an impromptu break for the weekend. 'o' tagged along and we headed on a bus from ekamai station to sin city, pattaya.

pattaya is not exactly the nature-filled, peaceful enclave that i was really needing, but at least it is not as polluted as bangkok, and it's only 2 hours away. my normal lush, tropical hotel is unfortunately closed for renovation through november :(, so i settled for a dive on 2nd road, with all amenities and within walking distance of everything for 500b. 'o' and i raided the minibar and flipped through cable a bit, and then i grabbed him by the scruff of the neck and forced him to accompany me to tequila reef, so i could finally satiate the horrific craving i have had for mexican food for months now. after a huge sampler plate, steak fajitas, and two huge margaritas, we staggered out into the dusky evening.

pattaya is a strange place. it attracts the greatest number of foreign losers of probably the entire world. there are hoardes of fat, hairy, bald old men on the prowl for young prostitutes. a few annoying frat-boy groups. & the US navy periodically pulls in and unloads the military boys onto the town, so often the bars are full of shaven-headed, loud-mouthed drunkards as well. the girls are not the prettiest of thai girls by any means (and in fact i noticed this time around that a lot of them are not even girls), and i marvel at the fact that men come from around the world to sleep with what 'o' disdainfully refers to as "black monkey girls", who are dressed in skimpy clothing, garish tattoos, spiked heels and too much makeup. i do have to say though that both sides of this coin seem quite happy with their situation, and there is a certain bored contentment underlying the seedy energy.

there's a beach, though neither the sand nor water are clean, it's covered with umbrellas, overrun with sellers, and surrounded by skyscraper condo projects. still, you can sip coconuts and dig your toes in the sand. and, well, there is enough entertainment around to keep anyone satisfied for a week or more, whether one is into the voyeuristic sex scene or not.

so we spent our time jumping back and forth from the swimming pool at our hotel to a rented motorbike. i showed 'o' everything i know about the city- the big buddha hill outside town surrounded by curious colorful characters from buddhist stories carved in wood, the elephant farm with it's smoky clumps of trees and winking mahouts, the luxurious fake beach at the overpriced hard rock cafe, the awesome art houses where boys are trained from birth to copy masterpieces, the penthouse hotel with it's indoor waterfalls and kitschy rooms with private stages, hot tubs, handcuffs, and love swings... we drank in beer bars and chatted with jaded bar girls and muay thai boxers from isaan, we critiqued the dancing girls in the go-gos ('o' being surprised that thai girls come in all shapes and sizes after all), we peeked into the boy bars and blushed at the young queers dancing in their tighty whiteys, we caught a well-known thai guitarist and a great wailing blond vocalist at the blues factory, we ate grilled seafood and watched skater boys tumble over one another on jomtien beach. i held a baby monkey, a big-eyed blinking marmoset, a muscular python. we tickled the tiny child flower-sellers roaming the streets at 2am. we chuckled at the painted transexual gangs hassling tourists on the street corners, the obvious freelance hookers from uzbekistan, and the farang volunteer policemen strutting with their noses in the air.

one thing i was suprised at was the amount of times i noticed people staring at 'o' and i and laughing to themselves. when one british guy smirked in passing and said "where'd you pick him up?", i realized they thought 'o' was a prostitute that i had gotten for the weekend. sigh. which led me to thinking that they weren't too far off the mark. except that i didn't just get him for the weekend, i have had him for more than 2 years off and on. and i don't even get decent nookie out of the bargain anymore...! in fact i don't get much of anything, i spend most of my time giving. i recently was talking to a farang friend of mine about his thai girlfriend of three years, and he said he finally realized that she was getting everything out of their relationship that she wanted (a cute white boy, money, a stable future, status, sex), and he was getting absolutely nothing he required (understanding, equality, stimulation, real love)... i guess i have felt the same about 'o' for awhile.... so changes are coming. but at least for now he isn't as bad as the last boyfriend i went to pattaya with, who would fail to meet me for dinner until 3 hours later i'd find him hiding in a beer bar with girls scrambling over him & kissing his neck, who would sneak out to screw various bar girls when i fell asleep and lie to me about it later, and who spent the remainder of the time dragging me around to go-gos to help him look for a girl to pick up, as if i didn't exist. 'o' at least shows some respect for me and doesn't objectify girls to a ridiculous degree. he can be funny and sweet, and i can make him drive me around on motorbike and practice massage on me! anyway for future visitors to pattaya (or for that matter thailand), you know what they say about those who assume....

so i had a decent weekend, now it's back to work on my little bed with my poor abused laptop, scrutinizing complex structures of information for mcgraw-hill. at night i will ride my new bike to the bar for a beer, read the old farang magazins lying around (who is brad pitt screwing now?!), listen to 'o' and his friend 'd' idealistically plan their future shop (making silver jewelry), and suck in clouds of pollution from passing busses. repeat for the next couple of weeks.... until i get a few more paychecks, and i am out of here!


Weidenkeks said...

where are you off to in a couple of weeks? leaving thailand?

btw, i thought the muay thai was pretty good in pattaya. had the air of desperation... all the rest of pattaya can go straight in the bin.

6:11 PM  
elocin x said...

possibly leaving thailand ;), but more likely just leaving bangkok.

there was a 14 year old kid at the muay thai place fighting a 56 year old man when i was sipping my mai tai two nights ago. just silly. i love pattaya for the endless eye candy (not just people). but it's a toilet.

6:20 PM  

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