Wednesday, January 04, 2006


it’s funny, there is something magical about how one life shifts suddenly to the next. one minute it’s one life, and the next it’s the next. i have never really had that happen in one place before, and I am a little freaked out, but i am already learning that as long as i have baht to spend here i am more than welcome, and i live in a beautiful place.

i awoke tangled sweatily in my blanket this morning at a very early 4am, by- you guessed it- karaoke. sigh…. and drunk karaoke is loud karaoke. i caught myself humming along and fell suddenly into a sneezing fit of about an hour’s length. drifted off to dreams of my mean mother around 6am, was awoken by a thunderstorm and howling dogs at about 8. fell asleep again to sounds of bustling neighbors…woke to the arrival of the mosquitoes…

finally in the real morning (after email check and coffee) i had kway tio in the shop full of grandma and grandpa thais in sarongs, lolling on the floor. the women shout to each other at the top of their lungs and the man coughs up a lung every 5 minutes and picks his teeth. the soup has a lot of garlic and herbs. across the street the jungle looms over the one main road. chickens dodge speeding motorbikes driven by 8 year olds. tourists wander, taking pictures or observing the thai observers standing in the shadows. it is sometimes unnerving to walk down, so I ride my silly bike. people still look and whisper at the sides of their mouths. my dogs run behind me and piss people off.

behind the main road is no man’s land (it’s nice) and then there is the beach, which has finally stopped thrashing and has chilled. mostly scottish people strolling in insular groups right now, the sand is powdery and white but still littered with monsoon remnants and threatens to be dumped on some more with another approaching storm (argh, just as i have to get the ferry to samui!). thai guys play volleyball or soccer (football, yawn). nondescript bungalows pepper the beach. the food sucks. the music is iffy… but as long as you keep looking at the turquoise water and white sand framed by scraggly rainforest it’s lovely.

i alternately read sleepily and felt sorry for myself today for a long time, on a mat on my floor in front of tv (hey at least i don’t really watch it- well except for air crash investigations and bitchy LA socialite documentaries.) my book was the life story of a hermaphrodite (“middlesex” by jeffrey eugenides). i tried to call ‘o’ but he pretended he didn’t know who i was so i snapped out of it pretty quickly, and back into feeling sorry for myself for being such a hopeless weakling (i hope this stage passes quickly). his murderess cousin has quickly remarried another loaded doctor in germany and the family is scheming for the new money…. fucking isaan.

tonight i had to pay an inordinate sum of money to ‘mean su’, the greediest lady in the village, for a teeny scratch on her motorbike that i didn’t even think to try and paint over. her shy ticklish looking husband came to passively demand it (can’t resist him damnit!), and even though i rightfully owe it i felt indignant all evening. tomorrow i will go have coffee and make friends with her because otherwise i will never survive in the village. they have black magic here, i'm sure of it.

so later i hopped on my bike down the lane to susie’s place and had chicken provencale served gracefully to me by my very strange ladyboy friend. he is the most ambitious and straightforward thai person that I know, but he has another freaky side that comes out in parties (eek!). he had a cute little waiter from chaing mai who was a duplicate of him working and I beamed at him while fumbling with my beer. i met a nice buxom gal from merry old england and got her drunk along with me, took her back to my place for a bit, and then kicked her out. a friend made and discarded in a matter of hours is sometimes a very good friend.

and now i am off to dreamland again. feeling staticky and dislocated but basically good and at home.


Weidenkeks said...

hey there. will be in koh phangan as fm jan 26 until feb 11. any recommendations on where to stay in thong nai pan yai?

let's hve a drink

cya weidenkeks

5:47 AM  
Weidenkeks said...

btw. updated my blog/pics. hve a look if you like....

8:48 AM  
elocin x said...

sorry i'm late- try candle huts or dolphin bungalows. maybe see you around!

12:10 AM  

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